Biver has arrived at Dubai Watch Week with a broad set of nine Automatique models, using the event as a platform to define the aesthetic direction of the brand’s next phase. Rather than leaning on a single flagship release, the company is presenting a series built around varied materials and traditional finishing techniques, each intended to demonstrate a different facet of its watchmaking approach. All nine models are powered by the JCB-003 movement, a caliber already used elsewhere in the lineup and notable for its micro-rotor in 22k gold and detailed decoration. The movement choice keeps the focus on design variations rather than mechanical novelty, which has become an increasingly common strategy for independent watchmakers looking to expand collections without overhauling their internal architecture each year.
The first model, Clous de Paris, pairs a 39mm platinum case with a blue-finished 18k gold dial featuring the classic hobnail texture. It’s the most understated of the group, but it introduces the emphasis on material quality that runs throughout the collection. A more traditional two-tone option follows, combining a rose gold case with a white gold dial — a familiar configuration treated here as a restrained take on mixed-metal design.
From there, the lineup moves into more expressive territory. A set of blue Quartzite dials comes in three variants, all cased in platinum: a straightforward stone dial, one with diamond hour markers, and another with sapphires. A similar approach appears in the lavender Jade models, which use the naturally pink-purple stone and offer both standard and diamond-set versions. These pieces lean into the wider trend of colorful mineral dials that has gained traction in high-end watchmaking over the past few years, driven by collectors who want distinctive texture and character over uniform sunburst patterns.
The final two watches use darker, layered stones. The Mahogany Obsidian version is paired with an 18k rose gold case, while the Oeil de Fer model uses a yellow gold case to bring out the complex brown tones of the stone. These pieces highlight Biver’s interest in showcasing materials that can vary subtly from watch to watch, a contrast to the more uniform precision of traditional enamel or guilloché work.
Pricing ranges from CHF 80,000 to CHF 125,000, depending on case metals and gem settings. For collectors, the appeal lies less in technical innovation and more in the diversity of materials and finishing techniques gathered into one release. While the watches sit firmly in the luxury tier, the collection gives Biver clearer visual identity at a time when many independent brands are using major events like Dubai Watch Week to refine their signatures and expand their presence.
